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The more Italy changes, the more it stays the same

It’s a French expression, of course: plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose. But we Traffords are back in Northern Italy after a...

Finding vault with a good meal

I confess, I love a good vault. Take our country's great churches. Mediaeval stonemasons crafted those lofty arched ceilings to soar heavenward, mingling with...